How to bind off (cast off)

The standard (basic) bind off

You'll work across the row, lifting one stitch over the next:

1. Knit the first two stitches as normal, so they're on your right needle.
2. Insert the left needle into the first stitch you knitted (the one further right).
3. Lift that first stitch up and over the second stitch and off the needle. One stitch remains on the right needle, and now you've bound off one stitch.
4. Knit one more stitch (you now have two on the right needle again).
5. Repeat steps 2–4 across the row.
6. When one stitch remains, cut the yarn leaving a 15 cm (6 inch) tail, pull it through the last loop, and tighten. → weave in the end with a tapestry needle.

Keep it loose. The most common bind-off mistake is working too tightly, which puckers the edge. Bind off at a relaxed tension, or use a needle one size larger for the bind-off row.

---

(Visual needed: step photos or GIF of lifting the stitch over — see build notes.)

---

When the standard bind off isn't enough

The standard bind off produces a firm, tidy edge with limited stretch. That's exactly right for shoulders, bag edges, blanket ends and seams — but too tight for anything that has to stretch over a body part, like the top of a toe-up sock, a hat brim, or the neckline of a top-down jumper. A too-firm edge there will either not go over, or snap a strand when forced.

The fix is simply to choose a different bind-off method for that edge. The methods below cover nearly every situation.

Other ways to bind off (and when to use each)

Every method secures the stitches — they differ in stretch, look, and purpose. Quick reference first, then each in brief:

Method	Stretch	Best for
Standard	Low	Shoulders, blankets, seamed edges
Stretchy	Very high	Sock cuffs, hat brims, necklines
Tubular / sewn	High	1×1 ribbing — cuffs, necklines
Three-needle	Low	Joining two live edges (shoulder seams)
I-cord	Medium	Decorative rounded edges on jackets, blankets
Icelandic	Medium	Shawls, scarves, garter fabrics
Picot	Medium	Decorative feminine edges on shawls, baby knits

Stretchy bind off. Worked with extra yarn-overs between stitches (Jeny's "surprisingly stretchy" bind off is the best-known version), it gives the edge far more give than the standard method. Use it wherever the edge must expand and recover — sock cuffs, hat brims, top-down necklines and mitten cuffs. → guide here.

Tubular (sewn) bind off. Worked with a tapestry needle rather than by lifting stitches over, it creates a rounded, seamless-looking edge that flows out of 1×1 ribbing beautifully, the "professional" finish you see on bought knitwear. Slower than other methods, but unmatched on ribbed cuffs and necklines. → guide here.

Three-needle bind off. Binds off two sets of live stitches together, joining them as it goes, really a seam and a bind off in one. The classic use is shoulder seams: it's faster and neater than binding off both pieces and sewing them. Needs the same number of stitches on each needle. → guide here.

I-cord bind off. Wraps the edge in a small knitted tube, giving a clean, rounded, rope-like border. Use it where the edge itself is a design feature, jacket fronts, blanket borders, bag openings. Uses noticeably more yarn and time. → guide here.

Icelandic bind off. A traditional method that's faster than most decorative options and gives a slightly elastic, chain-like edge. A favourite for shawls, scarves and garter-stitch pieces where the standard bind off would look tight and stringy. → guide here.

Picot bind off. Adds tiny points or bumps along the edge by casting on and binding off a couple of extra stitches at intervals. Purely decorative, lovely on shawl edges, baby garments and feminine hems. → guide here.

Rule of thumb: if the edge must stretch, pick stretchy or tubular; if it joins another piece, three-needle; if it's on show, i-cord, Icelandic or picot; otherwise the standard bind off is all you need.